Christmas was dark this year. There are almost no markets. Restaurants and cafés are closed. Some ski resorts are open and promise fun and sun, but I don’t want to take the children or indeed myself up there without a lodge to warm up in after a few hours in the snow. The valley is covered in low-hanging clouds. The temperature doesn’t stray far outside +1 and -1 degrees Celsius. Sometimes it rains. When it does, the clouds are darker and it feels as if night were about to fall at two in the afternoon.I...